Former Gurkha soldier and world-record-breaking mountaineer Hari Budha Magar has achieved a historic milestone in adaptive mountaineering, becoming the first double above-knee amputee to summit the highest peaks on all seven continents.
Magar completed the feat after successfully reaching the summit of Mount Vinson, Antarctica’s highest mountain, on Jan. 6. The climb marked the final stage of his ambitious “Conquering Dreams – 7 Summits” mission, a challenge that involves scaling the tallest mountain on each continent.
After years of preparation, Magar and his team—Abiral Rai, Mingma Sherpa and expedition leader Jangbu Sherpa from Alpine Ascents International—faced extreme conditions during the ascent. Temperatures dropped to around –25°C as fierce Antarctic winds, steep slopes and frozen ice fields tested both the climbers and Magar’s specialized prosthetic legs.
“The climb was very tough,” Magar said after reaching the summit. “The conditions and difficulty meant that I was literally crawling up on all fours, battling my way up the mountain.”
The team first crossed the dangerous Branscomb Glacier, navigating crevasses while roped together for safety. They then climbed more than 1,000 meters using fixed ropes on 45-degree slopes covered with a mix of deep snow and icy patches before reaching high camp.
From there, the final push to the summit proved even more challenging. Exposed terrain and strong winds slowed progress along the narrow ridge. Despite the harsh conditions, Magar described summit day as unforgettable.
“The weather was stunning—cold and clear, not a cloud in the sky—but windy,” he said. “As I crawled along the rocky summit ridge, I looked up and saw incredible Antarctic peaks rising through a thin layer of cloud.”
The achievement is especially remarkable considering Magar lost both of his legs in 2010 after stepping on an improvised explosive device while serving in the British Army’s Gurkha regiment in Afghanistan. The injury led to years of physical and mental recovery.
Through the support of his family and veteran charities, Magar eventually rediscovered purpose through sport and adventure. He later became an advocate for disability rights and helped overturn a Nepali government ban that had previously prevented climbers with disabilities from attempting Mount Everest.
Magar eventually summited Everest in 2022, proving that adaptive athletes could compete at the highest levels of mountaineering.
His journey to complete the Seven Summits required extensive collaboration with prosthetics specialists at Ottobock, who helped design customized legs and equipment capable of withstanding extreme conditions.
Beyond personal achievement, Magar’s mission also aims to raise awareness about disability and support veterans’ charities, including The Gurkha Welfare Trust.
“A disability shouldn’t limit the size of your dream,” Magar said. “Anything is possible with determination. You may need to adapt, get support or think differently—but you can still reach the summit.”